What is Chemicals to Zero (CtZ)?
Chemicals to Zero is a ZDHC Programme to drive better chemistry in chemical formulations used in the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industry. It is a journey of a chemical formulation through 3 levels : Foundational. Progressive and Aspirational. The ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance V2.0 is the basis for formulations to qualify for the CtZ Foundational level. Building on this established requirement, the CtZ Progressive level is an additional layer of requirements to predict risks of a ZDHC MRSL conformant formulation towards the AFIRM RSL in final articles (end products), when applied as per instruction of the chemical formulator. Further on this journey, the CtZ Aspirational level will require formulations to meet additional attributes of sustainable chemistry.
The CtZ will be part of the Leader Programme for the chemical industry (called Formulators to Zero) where CtZ requirements will be combined with additional attributes as an organisation at each level. The Formulators to Zero Leader Programme concept is currently a work-in-progress at ZDHC
Please note we often refer to Chemicals to Zero as CtZ and Chemicals to Zero-Progressive as CtZ-P.
Why has Chemicals to Zero been developed?
Conformance to the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 (Conformance levels 1,2,3), allows suppliers to assure themselves and their customers that banned chemical substances are not intentionally used during textile and footwear production processes. Although RSL criteria are considered when framing the ZDHC MRSL, conformance of a formulation to the ZDHC MRSL is not a guarantee that the requirements of product safety (in terms of RSL) are met.
ZDHC recognises it is necessary to develop a roadmap for formulations that goes beyond MRSL conformance and minimises risks in output streams and further provide a framework and metrics to define sustainable chemistry attributes for a formulation.
The Chemicals to Zero Programme will help formulators to differentiate their formulations and showcase added value for better chemistry through the three levels of the programme.
How does Chemicals to Zero fit into Formulators to Zero?
Chemicals to Zero (CtZ) is part of our continuous improvement exercise towards better chemistry for a formulation and establishes criteria for a formulation towards MRSL, RSL conformance and sustainable chemistry attributes. Formulator to Zero (FtZ) is a Leader Programme for formulators, where CtZ requirements will be combined with additional attributes as an organisation at each level to categorise Signatory Formulators as Pioneers, Accelerators and Champions. (The FtZ concept is a work in progress by ZDHC and further updates will be shared in the future.)
What is the Chemicals to Zero-Progressive (CtZ-P) transitional phase and who are the ZDHC Provisionally Approved Certification Schemes for the same?
Instead of starting from scratch, the transitional phase of the CtZ-P on the ZDHC Gateway is an endeavour to acknowledge existing advanced certification schemes that already embed the principles of CtZ-P. By provisional approval of such certification schemes, we aim to foster a unified industry approach and incentivise others to meet these advances sustainability standards. The CtZ-P transitional phase helps us to prepare the ZDHC Gateway with the functionalities to support the publishing of formulations to the CtZ-P on the ZDHC Gateway and signal the supply chain to orient themselves to the CtZ-P. The CtZ-P impacts not only the ZDHC Gateway but also the adoption tools such as ChemCheck and InCheck Reports.
Inditex The List V5.0 and third-party certifications such as bluesign®, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMAP V5.0 have established frameworks that align with the CtZ-P concept. These schemes have been granted a provisional approval for the CtZ-P transitional phase on the ZDHC Gateway. This means that formulations assessed by these certification schemes ZDHC MRSL V3.1 at Level 2 or 3 conformance will be assigned to the CtZ-P in the ZDHC Gateway in the transitional phase. Formulation names provided by Inditex from The List 5.0 will be automatically assigned to the CtZ-P in the ZDHC Gateway. For formulations with bluesign®, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMAP V5.0 certifications, a self-declaration from the formulator will be additionally required to assign them to the CtZ-P by the formulator.
Will the list of certification schemes be expanded?
ZDHC plans to develop a CPZ-Progressive framework through a Technical Experts Team based on the principles of Inditex The List, where a risk matrix of ZDHC MRSL conformant formulations to the AFIRM RSL will be established as a guidance for evaluating any formulation to the CtZ-P. This is expected to be published by the end of 2023, following which there will be an approval process of all other certification schemes for the CtZ-Progressive.
In the meantime, any certification scheme approved for the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 Level 2 or 3 conformance and having the confidence of the meeting the CtZ-P principles in their protocol can send a mail to quality@zdhc.org to apply for the provisional approval. Our Quality team will evaluate the certification scheme through document review before communicating any decision.
What are the different levels of Chemicals to Zero, and what do each of them mean?
There are three different levels of Chemicals to Zero: Foundational, Progressive and Aspirational.
A formulation is in Chemical to zero-Foundational level if it meets any of the three MRSL Conformance Levels, as described in the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance V2.0. This is the entry point for a chemical formulation where the formulation is certified for the MRSL V3.1, Level 1 or 2 or 3.
Formulations which are certified at MRSL V3.1 Conformance Level 2 or 3 and which qualify to the Chemicals to Zero-Progressive framework (that we will develop and publish by the end of 2023) will be assigned to the CtZ-Progressive level in the Gateway. Products which do not qualify to the CtZ-Progressive will continue to remain in CtZ-Foundational at the relevant MRSL conformance levels.
Currently in the transitional phase, formulations that are certified to MRSL V3.1 Level 2 or 3 by one of the ZDHC approved certification schemes; Inditex The List V5.0, bluesign®, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMAP and have a signed self-declaration from the formulator in the ZDHC Gateway are categorised as CtZ-Progressive on the ZDHC Gateway.
Please see our Knowledge Base article on how to sign a self-declaration.
Formulations that meet the requirements of ZDHC MRSL V3.1 Level 2 or 3 and CtZ-Progressive and which confirm the metrics related to sustainable chemistry attributes (to be developed) will be assigned to the CtZ-Aspirational level. The CtZ-Aspirational framework will be developed at a later stage.
How will formulations qualify for Chemicals to Zero - Progressive (CtZ-P)?
The implementation of the CtZ-P will require development of a framework that will be an additional layer that predicts risks from an MRSL conformant formulation to the AFIRM RSL. This will define the rules and principles that will serve as a guidance to qualify a formulation and assign it to the CtZ-P on the ZDHC Gateway. For this, ZDHC will set up a Technical Experts team, with a strong link to the MRSL Council, to prepare the CtZ-P framework. The outcome would be a series of RSL risk matrices for textiles, leather, polymers and, eventually, commodity chemicals. A range of data sources will be utilised to support the risk assessments, with correlation studies initiated where little or no data currently exists. Based on the risk assessment results, the Technical Experts team would develop a classification system for the CtZ-Progressive Level framework.
The Technical Experts team would work closely with stakeholders from the textile, leather, and polymer manufacturing supply chains to identify chemistry types and associated risks from substances listed in the ZDHC MRSL and AFIRM RSL.
The CtZ- P Guidelines is expected to be released in December 2023.
What are the benefits of CtZ- P to ZDHC stakeholders ?
Brands can recommend their supply chain to use formulations assigned to the CtZ-P level, giving assurance of reduced risks to the AFIRM RSL in end products, improving confidence to brands that products delivered are safe.
Suppliers can make informed decisions when purchasing chemical formulations assigned to the CtZ-P to minimise the risk of non-conformance to the RSL requirements of their buyers. This will not only help them to ensure that banned substances are not used intentionally in their manufacturing processes through conformance to the ZDHC MRSL, but will also help them produce safer and more sustainable articles that meet the expectations of consumers and regulatory bodies. It is also a demonstration of the shared responsibility of the supplier for RSL conformance.
The labelling of Chemicals to Zero-Progressive on the ZDHC Gateway will enable chemical formulators to demonstrate to customers (manufacturing facilities) the better chemistry of their products. Although it is not a guarantee for RSL conformance, it will help to give added assurance, when the formulation is applied as per instructions provided by the formulator. Thus, by qualifying formulations to the CtZ-P, formulators can differentiate their formulations for added value to their customers.
What actions are required by ZDHC stakeholders during the CtZ-P transitional phase?
There is no specific action required from brands and suppliers at this time for the CtZ-P transitional phase.
However, suppliers can monitor the formulations assigned to the CtZ-P in their chemical inventory through the Performance InCheck Report. They can also keep up-to-date with forthcoming developments of the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme.
Chemical formulators are required to sign self-declaration on the ZDHC Gateway for formulations that meet the criteria for CtZ-P. Suppliers are not required/able to upload these declarations for their formulators.
What actions does a chemical formulator need to take during the CtZ-P transitional phase?
Where formulations are certified by the CtZ-P provisionally approved third-party certification schemes, bluesign®, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT or BLC ChemMAP V5.0 for ZDHC MRSL V3.1, Level 2 or 3 conformance, formulators can publish these formulations to the CtZ-P in their Gateway account through a self-declaration. Please see our Chemicals to Zero Gateway Knowledge Base Articles for more details.
What actions does a solution provider need to take during the CtZ-P transitional phase?
Solution providers are not required to take any action. However if you as a solution provider feel your certification scheme meets the CtZ-P criteria to be provisionally accepted into the transitional phase of CtZ-P, please contact quality@zdhc.org
Is there a separate certificate that the formulation receives for CtZ?
No there is not separate certificate for Chemicals to Zero. The three levels of CtZ (Foundational, Progressive (and in the future Aspirational) are detailed on the ChemCheck, ChemCheck Summary and InCheck reports and also in the profile page of the formulator in the ZDHC Gateway. Please see our Chemicals to Zero Gateway Knowledge Base Articles for more details.
If a supplier uses a formulation from CtZ- P in the ZDHC Gateway, Is there any exemption in wastewater testing?
No, there is no exemption from the wastewater testing, as per the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines. The CTZ-P framework is to connect ZDHC MRSL conformance to predict risks to the AFIRM RSL that applies to a final article. It is not to establish any co-relation with the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines v2.1. Suppliers should continue to test their wastewater as per the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines v2.1 twice a year and report on their ZDHC Gateway account as part of their implementation of the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme.
What is the validity of the CtZ-P self-declaration?
There is no individual validity date. The formulation will expire as per the expiry date for the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 certification, after which the ZDHC MRSL certification should be renewed. In the transitional phase, if the formulation is certified through bluesign®, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT or BLC ChemMAP V5.0, it can be published by the formulator again to the CtZ-P through a self-declaration.
For formulations to achieve the CtZ- progressive level, will there be a platform similar to the supplier to zero platform where I can answer various questions and thus obtain the level, or will I have to use an approved certification body?
The CtZ-Progressive is in 2 phases. The initial phase is the transitional phase launched on 28th July 2023, where we have provisionally approved, Inditex The List, Oekotex OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT, bluesign® and BLC ChemMAP for the CtZ-P. If your formulations are certified by these certification schemes to MRSL V3.1 Level 2 or 3, all you have to do is to go into your Gateway account, view these products highlighted by the red dot in your “Products” tab, and assign them to the CtZ-Progressive through your self-declaration. You don't have to re-certify the formulation or need any other platform to achieve the CtZ-Progressive level.
The 2nd phase is the development of the CtZ-P framework that will be the guidance to qualify any formulation to the CtZ-P. The process of assigning formulations based on this CtZ-P framework will be finalised and communicated in the near future.
What is the timeline for CtZ?
Are regulations regarding labelling, packaging and transportation or chemical hazards of chemical formulations covered in CtZ-P framework?
No, the CtZ-P framework will only evaluate risks to the AFIRM RSL for product safety of a ZDHC MRSL conformant formulation. The chemical hazard assessment with respect to these other kinds of hazards may be part of the CtZ-Aspirational sustainability. But it is not part of the CtZ-progressive framework.
How does a safety data sheet (SDS) relate to CtZ-P?
The CtZ is not based on or related to the content or accuracy of safety data sheets (SDS). An SDS is a requirement to communicate hazards and safety precautions by the formulator for any formulation. From 1st Nov 2023, when the transition period of the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 comes to an end, a formulator is mandated to upload an SDS document for a formulation or provide a link to the SDS before the formulation can be published in the ZDHC Gateway.