Chemicals to Zero is a ZDHC Programme to drive better chemistry in chemical formulations used in the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industries. It is a journey of chemical formulation through 3 levels: Foundational, Progressive and Aspirational. The ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance V2.1 is the basis for formulations to qualify for the CtZ Foundational level. Building on this established requirement, the CtZ Progressive level is a framework to predict risks of a ZDHC MRSL conformant formulation towards an RSL (such as AFRIM RSL) in final articles (end products), when applied as per instructions of the chemical formulator. Further on this journey, the CtZ Aspirational level will require formulations to meet additional attributes of sustainable chemistry.

The CtZ will be part of the Leader Programme for the chemical industry (called Formulators to Zero) where CtZ requirements will be combined with additional attributes as an organisation at each level. The Formulators to Zero Leader Programme concept is currently a work in progress at ZDHC.

Please note we often refer to Chemicals to Zero as CtZ and Chemicals to Zero-Progressive as CtZ-P.

Conformance to the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 (Conformance levels 1,2,3), allows suppliers to assure themselves and their customers that banned chemical substances are not intentionally used during textile and footwear production processes. Although RSL criteria are considered when framing the ZDHC MRSL, conformance of a formulation to the ZDHC MRSL may not cover all RSL risks in terms of product safety.

ZDHC recognises it is necessary to develop a roadmap for formulations that goes beyond MRSL conformance and minimises risks in products and further provides a framework and metrics to define sustainable chemistry attributes for a formulation.

The Chemicals to Zero Programme will help formulators to differentiate their formulations and showcase added value for better chemistry through the three levels of the programme.

Chemicals to Zero (CtZ) is part of our continuous improvement exercise towards better chemistry for a formulation and establishes criteria for a formulation towards MRSL, RSL conformance and sustainable chemistry attributes. Formulator to Zero (FtZ) is a Leader Programme for formulators, where CtZ requirements will be combined with additional attributes as an organisation at each level to categorise Signatory Formulators as Pioneers, Accelerators and Champions. (The FtZ concept is a work in progress by ZDHC and further updates will be shared in the future.)

Instead of starting from scratch, the transitional phase of the CtZ-P on the ZDHC Gateway is an endeavour to acknowledge existing certification schemes that already consistently embed the principles of CtZ-P. By provisional approval of such certification schemes, we aim to foster a unified industry approach and incentivise others to meet these advanced sustainability standards. The CtZ-P transitional phase helps us to prepare the ZDHC Gateway with the functionalities to support the publishing of formulations to the CtZ-P on the ZDHC Gateway. The CtZ-P impacts not only the ZDHC Gateway but also the adoption tools such as ChemCheck and InCheck Reports.

Inditex The List V5.0 and third-party certifications such as bluesign®️, OEKO-TEX®️ ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMAP V5.0 have established frameworks that align with the CtZ-P concept. These schemes have been granted provisional approval for the CtZ-P transitional phase on the ZDHC Gateway. This means that formulations assessed by these certification schemes ZDHC MRSL V3.1 at Level 2 or 3 conformance will be assigned to the Provisional CtZ-P in the ZDHC Gateway in the transitional phase. Formulation names provided by Inditex from The List 5.0 will be automatically assigned to the Provisional CtZ-P in the ZDHC Gateway. For formulations with bluesign®️, OEKO-TEX®️ ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMAP V5.0 certifications, a self-declaration from the formulator will be additionally required to assign them to the Provisional CtZ-P by the formulator.

ZDHC plans to develop a CtZ-Progressive framework through a Technical Experts Team based on the best available technologies or techniques that include an evaluation protocol of ZDHC MRSL conformant formulations to RSL risks. The framework will be established as guidance for evaluating formulations to the CtZ-P. Once the CtZ-P framework is in place the list of certification schemes will be expanded based on approval submissions via the SPP (Solution Provider Platform)

There are three different levels of Chemicals to Zero: Foundational, Progressive and Aspirational.

A formulation is in Chemical to Zero-Foundational level if it meets any of the three MRSL Conformance Levels, as described in the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance V2.0. This is the entry point for a chemical formulation where the formulation is certified for the MRSL V3.1, Level 1 or 2 or 3.

Formulations which are certified at MRSL V3.1 Conformance Level 2 or 3 and which qualify for the Chemicals to Zero-Progressive framework will be assigned to the CtZ-Progressive level in the Gateway. Products which do not qualify for the CtZ-Progressive will continue to remain in CtZ-Foundational at the relevant MRSL conformance levels.

Currently in the transitional phase, formulations that are certified to MRSL V3.1 Level 2 or 3 by one of the ZDHC-approved certification schemes bluesign®️, OEKO-TEX®️ ECO PASSPORT and BLC ChemMap V5.0 and have a signed self-declaration from the formulator in the ZDHC Gateway are categorised as CtZ-Progressive on the ZDHC Gateway. If the formulation is listed in Inditex The ListV5.0, the self declaration is not needed.

Please see our Knowledge Base article on how to sign a self-declaration.

The CtZ-Aspirational framework will be developed at a later stage.

Brands can recommend their supply chain to use formulations assigned to the CtZ-P level, giving assurance of reducing RSL risks in end products, and improving confidence of brands that products delivered in respecting RSL limits.

Suppliers can make informed decisions when purchasing chemical formulations assigned to the CtZ-P to minimise the risk of non-conformance to the RSL requirements of their buyers. This will not only help them to ensure that banned substances are not used intentionally in their manufacturing processes through conformance to the ZDHC MRSL, but will also help them produce safer and more sustainable articles that meet the expectations of consumers and regulatory bodies. It is also a demonstration of the shared responsibility of the supplier for RSL conformance.

The labelling of Chemicals to Zero-Progressive on the ZDHC Gateway will enable chemical formulators to demonstrate to customers (manufacturing facilities) the better chemistry of their products. Although it is not a guarantee for RSL conformance, it will help to give added assurance, when the formulation is applied as per instructions provided by the formulator. Thus, by qualifying formulations to the CtZ-P, formulators can differentiate their formulations for added value to their customers.

There is no specific implementation action required from brands, suppliers and formulators at this time for the CtZ-P transitional phase.

However, suppliers will see the formulations assigned to the Provisional CtZ-P in their chemical inventory through the Performance InCheck Report.

Chemical formulators may required to sign self-declaration on the ZDHC Gateway for formulations that meet the criteria for Provisional CtZ-P.

Solution providers that are not in the group of those provisionally approved should wait for the publication of the CtZ-P framework and approval processes and criteria before doing any action.

During the transitional phase, formulators are requested not to promote or market CtZ-P certified chemicals as a unique value proposition for the business.

There is no specific implementation action that is required from formulators as we are in the CtZ-P transitional phase.

Where formulations are certified by the CtZ-P provisionally approved third-party certification schemes, bluesign®️, OEKO-TEX®️ ECO PASSPORT or BLC ChemMAP V5.0 for ZDHC MRSL V3.1, Level 2 or 3 conformance, formulators may publish these formulations to the CtZ-P in their Gateway account through a self-declaration. Please see our Chemicals to Zero Gateway Knowledge Base Articles for more details.

During the transitional phase, formulators are requested not to promote or market CtZ-P certified chemicals as a unique value proposition for the business.

Solution providers are not required to take any action. Together with experts from the provisionally approved standards, we will draft the CtZ-P framework and make it available to our entire community for review. Once the Conformance Guidance is launched, we will open an approval process for all certifications (including the provisionally approved ones). We will keep the community and all solution providers updated on the ongoing activities related to the CtZ-P framework definition.

During the transitional phase, formulators are requested not to promote or market CtZ-P certified chemicals as a unique value proposition for the business.